If you are having issues with your FTSs or FTSs2 Controller, these troubleshooting steps may be able to help you get sorted out or at least will help identify where the issue is before you reach out to the Support Team.
The pump is not working
•Check Pump Time Delay Parameter
If this is a brand new controller and FTSs kit, you may be encountering the programmed pump delay. We equip our controllers with a delay function to change between hot and cold cycles.
You can change the time delay in the advanced settings by accessing the PT or P7 code. Hold down the set button for three seconds to get to the advanced menu. Go to the PT/P7 setting. Normally it's set at 5 minutes. You can adjust how many minutes you would like the delay depending on your ambient climates. Let's lower it and see if the pump is just cycling on and off based on the delay.
•Check Power Supply and Grounding
Next, let's check the power supply. If the green/blue light isn't on when you plug it in, it's the power brick. It's the green/blue light IS on let's look at the grounding.
If you unplug the unit and then look at the controller and pump power sockets on the controller, you will notice a small grounding tab on the outer circumference of the socket. That is the part that makes contact with the male end of the connector. If you go ahead and use a paperclip or even a small screwdriver and bend that tab slightly toward the center pin of the socket, that will improve the contact with the male connector allowing full power to reach the controller.
•Disassemble Pump
If the pump still will not function, You can take apart the pump to see if anything is causing this issue. It has ceramic bearings and if temporarily ran without liquid it can lock up.
Go ahead and carefully disassemble the pump head, remove and reinstall the impeller, ensuring that it spins freely. Then go ahead and retest with the pump fully submerged.
•Controller Hard Reset
You can reset the controller to see if a setting is not allowing it to kick on.
1. Press the SET key and the UP ARROW key simultaneously. This will get you to the advanced settings menu.
2. Then press and hold the RST key. The screen with restart and then all settings should be reset back to the factory.
FTSs2 Heating Pad is Not Working
•Check Power Supply and Grounding
Start with the power supply. Let's confirm the output voltage and amperage on the power supply brick. Our FTSs2 kit uses an upgraded 8amp 12v power supply and if a power supply with a lower amperage output, you may see some issues with the controller power cycling when the heating pad is used.
If the correct power supply is being used, let's check the status indicator LED on the power supply. If the green/blue light isn't on when you plug it in, it's the power brick. It's the green/blue light IS on let's look at the grounding.
If you unplug the unit and then look at the controller and heater power sockets on the controller, you will notice a small grounding tab on the outer circumference of the socket. That is the part that makes contact with the male end of the connector. If you go ahead and use a paperclip or even a small screwdriver and bend that tab slightly toward the center pin of the socket, that will improve the contact with the male connector allowing full power to reach the controller.
•Controller Hard Reset
You can reset the controller to see if a setting is not allowing it to kick on.
1. Press the SET key and the UP ARROW key simultaneously. This will get you to the advanced settings menu.
2. Then press and hold the RST key. The screen with restart and then all settings should be reset back to the factory.
The Read Temperature On the Controller Is Not Accurate or Consistent
Remove the probe from the thermowell and place it in your closed hand. If the controller still seems inaccurate or inconsistent, go ahead and skip to the bolded paragraph at the end of this article.
EEE/HHH/LLL On The Controller Display Instead of Temperature
These are codes related to the probe and can tell us a few things about what may be going on.
•HHH and LLL Codes
HHH is a high temp limit alarm and LLL is a low temp limit alarm. These are parameters you can adjust within the Controller's menus so we would recommend checking these first to make sure they are set appropriately first.
1. Press the “Set” key and hold more than 3 seconds to enter the menu display
2. With "^” or “v” key, scroll through the menu until the “HS” or “LS” parameter code appears.
3. Press the “Set” key to display the upper or lower limit set value, Then press “^” or “v” key to adjust the parameters. HS means "upper limit". "LS means lower limit". Factory Default = “-44, +299”.
You may also see the HHH or LLL in a case where the probe or wire has been damaged. Go ahead and inspect the probe wiring for any damage or pinch points that could be the source of the issue. If not, skip to the bolded paragraph at the end of this article for the details on opening the controller box.
•EEE or --- Code
EEE is a loose/damaged or disconnected probe. Go ahead and inspect the probe wiring for any damage or pinch points that could be the source of the issue.
If the wires and probes appear to be in good shape, it may be a good idea to open the housing up by removing those 4 screws on the front and back and make sure that the wires are solidly connected to the internal portion of the controller, this would possibly solve the problem immediately. Otherwise, if this wire is solidly connected in its terminal then a replacement controller may be needed and you should reach out to the Ss Brewtech Support Team!
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