With the advent of individually sized priming tablets for bottling, a bottling bucket is no longer needed to insure that priming sugar is thoroughly mixed into your beer. Furthermore, users don't have to risk racking their precious concoction into another vessel and risk further O2 contact.
Here is a list of parts you will need for best results:
1. 1.5" TC to 3/8" Hose Barb for the Chronical BME, Unitank, or Brite Tank
(OR a 1/2" MPT to 3/8" Host Barb on the Standard Chronical)
Install the 3/8" barb on your racking valve, and then run a length of 3/8" silicone tubing to your bottling wand. Ideally, mix up a small container of Starsan to set your wand into while you ready your next bottle and do your capping. This will insure that the wand remains sanitary. Always use individually sized priming tablets, since mixing in priming sugar will reintroduce yeast back into suspension, resulting in poor clarity.
Once you have crash cooled and completely cleared the beer of residual yeast, start by carefully elevating your fermenter to give yourself extra room to bottle. Or simply setup your bottling line on the ground near the racking valve.
Before you begin bottling, insure that your blow-off is removed so that sanitizer isn't inadvertently sucked into the top of your fermenter from the negative pressure. Once you have made the proper tubing connections you can open your racking valve to begin since the wand has a built in valve to control flow. Happy bottling!
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